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Ubiquitous complement manufacturers, fronted by radiant 50-something stars like Jennifer Aniston or Davina McCall, promise improved pores and skin, hair and nails. It’s unsurprising that 15 per cent of British girls have taken collagen up to now this yr, and the UK collagen market is ready to achieve £37.5 million by the tip of 2025.
Yet within the notoriously unregulated world of dietary dietary supplements, few are as contentious as collagen. Touted by some as the key to a glowier midlife, there are others who say it’s only one extra technique to fleece peri/menopausal girls. Now in my mid-40s, I can see why these dietary supplements might be a licence to print cash. I’d actually pay for one thing I believed would possibly deliver again my glow. But would it not be value it?
What is collagen and the way does it work?
An animal-derived protein, the commonest sources of collagen are bovine (cow) or marine (fish), which ship comparable advantages. It is extracted from the bones, pores and skin or scales, then goes by a course of referred to as hydrolysis to interrupt it down for higher absorption.
‘Collagen dietary supplements include pre-broken protein items referred to as peptides,’ explains dietary scientist Toral Shah. ‘Your digestive system breaks them down additional into amino acids, to cross by your intestine wall into your bloodstream. These go to areas that require protein, equivalent to pores and skin, joints and bones.’ While it’s clearly not so simple as the collagen you’ve ingested going straight to clean out your wrinkles, the peptides do act as constructing blocks for wholesome pores and skin. But – and it’s a decent-sized however – it might not go to your pores and skin in any respect.
‘It would possibly go to your joints, muscle groups or different tissues,’ says registered dietitian Nichola Ludlam-Raine. ‘You can’t “direct” collagen to your pores and skin. The thought is to provide your physique the uncooked supplies to make collagen the place it’s wanted.’
To me, this doesn’t really feel like a foul factor. If different elements of my physique want it greater than my pores and skin, I’m glad they’re getting it. But let’s think about the proof, as a result of some argue that an excessive amount of of the analysis has been funded by collagen manufacturers, making it biased. A meta-analysis (the place scientific trials are pooled collectively for a extra complete outcome) from 2021 discovered that collagen ‘is efficient in decreasing pores and skin ageing, because it reduces wrinkles and improves pores and skin elasticity and hydration’, however one other from 2024 discovered ‘research not receiving funding from pharmaceutical firms revealed no impact for bettering pores and skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles’.
It’s straightforward to be sceptical, however dismissing all proof funded by collagen firms would imply dismissing the overwhelming majority of it. ‘Industry-funded analysis is commonplace observe as a result of public funding for dietary research is restricted,’ says immunologist Dr Jenna Macciochi from the University of Sussex. ‘If we relied on authorities grants, we’d have little innovation or perception into meals and complement interventions. So, whereas it’s a sound concern, it doesn’t robotically discredit the science.’
Dr Dave Reilly, senior scientist on the model Absolute Collagen, tells me a accountable model will use third social gathering testing. ‘We commissioned an unbiased scientific trials firm to hold out a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled, 12-week scientific trial testing the pores and skin and hair advantages for 130 girls,’ he says. The outcomes, which have been printed and peer-reviewed, confirmed ‘scientific advantages for pores and skin, scalp and hair’.
Personally, I discover it onerous to gauge whether or not collagen has an impact on my pores and skin as a result of it differs relying on how a lot sleep I’ve had, how careworn I’m, how I’ve been consuming, and so forth. But my nails positively grew stronger once I was recurrently taking collagen and have become brittle after I fell out of the behavior. If I can see the impact on my nails, it feels promising for what’s taking place the place I can’t see it.
‘Collagen isn’t only a magnificence complement,’ says Dr Macciochi. ‘It’s a structural protein used everywhere in the physique: tendons, ligaments, joints, bones, pores and skin, intestine lining. I see it as a whole-body resilience instrument, helpful in restoration from harm, lively existence and ageing properly for women and men alike.’
If you’re impatient to see outcomes, then take heed. ‘Consistency is essential,’ insists Julie Lamble, nutritionist at Vital Proteins, the Aniston-endorsed model. ‘With common use, you’ll begin to see and really feel advantages in round six weeks – however the physique is sensible and can ship the collagen the place it’s most wanted, so it could possibly take time.’
How ought to we take it: capsule, liquid or powder?
With so many merchandise vying for our consideration, how do you select the best? And as a fast scan of the Holland & Barrett web site exhibits me merchandise starting from £3.50 to £60, ought to I simply go for the costliest to make sure the very best quality?
‘The key’s the dose,’ says Ludlam-Raine. ‘Powders and liquids mean you can take increased doses than tablets, merely due to quantity. As for price, the next price ticket doesn’t robotically imply higher high quality – search for a good model that gives the collagen sort and dose utilized in analysis (round 3-10g a day), with third-party testing for high quality and purity.’
Lamble says the Vital Proteins dose of 10g (above, £25.76 for ten sachets) will ship the very best outcomes, whereas Dr Reilly says that Absolute Collagen’s 8g (beneath, £55.98 for 4 weeks’ provide) is the best dose. And Gail Madalena, dietary therapist at Wild Nutrition, says its Collagen 500 Plus is efficient at simply 3g (beneath, £35). ‘Most collagen peptides are round 2,000-3,000 dalton weight, so much less effectively absorbed,’ says Madalena. ‘Ours has a molecular weight of 500 daltons, permitting for speedy absorption, so our 3g dose can ship highly effective outcomes.’ Wild Nutrition’s powder additionally accommodates vitamin C, biotin and silica, very important for catalysing collagen manufacturing.
So if an efficient dose is wherever between 3-10g, what’s the easiest way to take it? Most consultants consider that capsules don’t present a big sufficient dose (many include solely 1g). Lamble factors out that Vital Proteins powder could be added to scorching or chilly liquids and meals as a result of it’s tasteless and doesn’t alter the feel.
Dr Macciochi agrees. ‘Liquid collagen usually contains sweeteners and preservatives,’ she explains. ‘Powders permit for efficient doses with out pointless extras.’
Dr Reilly says that powders and liquids are comparable when it comes to efficacy, so it comes all the way down to desire – no matter works for you – although liquid sachets could be swallowed with out being combined into something.
Don’t we have to eat healthily, too?
Like any complement, collagen can’t work in a vacuum, it have to be a part of a skin-healthy way of life. ‘Eat sufficient protein to supply all of the amino acids your physique wants,’ advises Ludlam-Raine. ‘Vitamin C from fruit and veg is crucial, and nuts, seeds and wholegrains present copper and zinc to assist type and stabilise collagen. Then keep away from smoking and minimise alcohol, each of which break down collagen sooner.’
Consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall recommends including gut-supporting meals like kefir, and skin-friendly fat equivalent to nuts, salmon and avocado. ‘Avoid ultra-processed and sugar-rich meals,’ she says. ‘They create irritation and promote glycation, the place collagen turns into stiff and fewer capable of renew.’ She cites proof that antioxidants, equivalent to lycopene in tomatoes, lutein in leafy greens and anthocyanins in berries, can defend pores and skin in opposition to air pollution and solar injury.
The proper skincare helps, too. ‘Use a sturdy SPF and delicate merchandise that received’t disrupt your pores and skin barrier,’ says Dr Hextall, who recommends inexpensive manufacturers like CeraVe, Cetaphil and Avène. She provides that decreasing stress and prioritising sleep make an enormous distinction, too.
So is it a miracle complement – or a con?
If you’re anticipating a magic powder to erase your wrinkles, no matter how a lot wine, solar injury and junk meals you topic your physique to, then you might really feel conned. Collagen can’t undo unhealthy pores and skin habits. But, whereas nothing goes to revive my pores and skin to its pre-40 glory, collagen is one instrument in an arsenal that features consuming extra greens and carrying SPF. And I consider that it’s an efficient one.
