The storied Asti area of northern Italy noticed a lush harvest this yr, however many winegrowers are leaving some grapes on the vine, selecting to provide much less as US and Russian demand drops.
After two tough years, 2025 has been a very good one, and Italy is anticipated to as soon as once more beat rival France because the world’s main wine producer.
But Paolo Castelletti, secretary basic of the Union of Italian Wine, mentioned it was not precisely one thing to be celebrated.
“There is a decline in wine consumption, particularly in the principle market, North America,” he advised AFP.
“The market was supported by boomers… now they’re decreasing their consumption,” he mentioned.
US President Donald Trump’s new tariffs additionally make imports dearer and will push Italian wines above the “psychological threshold” of $20 a bottle, he mentioned.
The tariffs got here on the again of a decline in demand in Russia following Moscow’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine.
Around 12 million bottles had been bought in Russia in 2024, down from 17 million in 2023.
This yr’s gross sales are anticipated to face at 10 million.
In complete, export demand for Italian wines slowed by 4 p.c within the first 5 months of 2025.
Some vineyards in France have determined to uproot vines to adapt – a transfer backed by the European Commission.
But Castelletti mentioned this must be a “final resort”, and helps leaving grapes on the vine, or blocking authorisation for brand spanking new plantings.
Advertisement
Hot summer season
Leaving grapes on the vine is what some winegrowers are doing in Asti to provide much less glowing white, as they plan to cut back Muscat manufacturing from 10 to 9 tonnes per hectare of vines this yr.
At his Ca’ dei Mandorli property, an expanse of seemingly countless vineyards, Stefano Ricagno assessed his first juices as harvesters made the ultimate cuts on the vines.
“We thought we would produce loads, nevertheless it was extremely popular [this summer]. The Muscat harvest is sort of in step with our [lowered] targets,” Ricagno advised AFP.
The 46-year-old presides over the Asti Designation of Origin, which covers practically 10,000 hectares of hills listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Asti has made a reputation for itself with low-alcohol glowing wines, usually round seven p.c for Asti and 5 p.c for Moscato, nearly all of that are bought within the United States.
Sales of the Asti Designation of Origin fell from 100 million bottles in 2023 to 90 million final yr.Â
The determine is anticipated to drop once more this yr, with gross sales estimated at 85 million.
Advertisement
“We’ll see in 2026 if the wars finish and the markets get well,” Ricagno mentioned.
Other Italian appellations, reminiscent of Valpolicella in Veneto, have additionally decreased volumes this yr due to market uncertainties.
But some need nothing to do with quotas.
A number of kilometres from Asti, in Nizza Monferrato, Francesco Pozzobon, 35, has taken over deserted vines and is letting them develop with out pesticides, sowing clover and broad beans between the rows.
“We’ve overproduced and underproduced,” Pozzobon mentioned.
“With the drop in demand, there might be a pure skimming.”
At three tonnes per hectare, the yield at his Tenuta Foresto is far more irregular and decrease than that of his neighbours, however he instructions excessive costs for his “artisanal” wines, at the same time as far-off as China.
